A tragic incident has been reported from Mount Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak, where experienced Nepali climber Phurba Ongel Sherpa lost his life during descent, while an Iranian climber from the same expedition has gone missing. The incident occurred during the Mount Makalu Winter Expedition 2026, highlighting once again the extreme risks associated with high-altitude winter mountaineering in the Himalayas.
According to Makalu Adventure Pvt. Ltd., the expedition operator, Phurba Ongel Sherpa successfully reached the summit of Mount Makalu, which stands at 8,485 metres, on January 15. However, tragedy struck while he was descending from above Camp IV, located at approximately 8,000 metres. Information relayed from the base camp confirms that he fell during the descent, resulting in his death.
Climbers Reach the Summit Amid Harsh Conditions
On the same summit day, a small team of climbers reached the top of Makalu despite challenging winter conditions. The group included renowned mountain guide Sanu Sherpa, climbing guide Phurba Ongel Sherpa, fellow Sherpa climber Rinji Sherpa, and Iranian mountaineer Abolfazl Gozali. Winter ascents of Makalu are considered among the most demanding in Himalayan mountaineering due to extreme cold, strong winds, and technical terrain.
The successful summit was initially regarded as a major achievement for the expedition. However, the descent proved perilous, underscoring a well-known reality in high-altitude climbing that most accidents occur after summiting, when climbers are exhausted, and weather conditions can change rapidly.
Loss Felt Deeply in the Mountaineering Community
Phurba Ongel Sherpa was not only a skilled climber but also a member of a prominent mountaineering family. According to Mohan Lamsal, founder of Makalu Adventure Pvt. Ltd., Phurba Ongel Sherpa was the younger brother of Sanu Sherpa, one of Nepal’s most accomplished mountaineers and a holder of multiple world records.
“Sanu Sherpa himself confirmed the tragic loss of his brother,” Lamsal said, adding that the news has deeply affected the entire expedition team and the wider climbing community. Sherpa climbers play a vital role in Himalayan expeditions, often taking on the most demanding and dangerous tasks to support summit attempts.
Tributes have begun to pour in from fellow climbers and expedition operators, remembering Phurba Ongel Sherpa for his professionalism, strength, and dedication to mountaineering.
Iranian Climber Reported Missing
Alongside the confirmed fatality, serious concern remains for Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali, who has been reported missing during the descent. According to information shared by Sanu Sherpa with the expedition management, Gozali was last seen between Camp IV and Camp III while descending from the summit.
The area between these high camps is known for steep sections and exposure to severe weather, making visibility and movement extremely difficult, especially during winter. Since losing contact with Gozali, the expedition team has been working closely with authorities and rescue personnel to coordinate search efforts.
Rescue Operation Underway
Mohan Lamsal confirmed that a rescue operation is currently underway to locate the missing Iranian mountaineer. Four Sherpa rescuers have been mobilised from Lukla, a key gateway to the Everest and Makalu regions, while another four Sherpas are already stationed at the Makalu base camp.
“In total, an eight-member Sherpa rescue team, including Sanu Sherpa, is involved in the search operation,” Lamsal said. The team is facing difficult conditions as they continue the search at high altitude, where weather, terrain, and limited daylight pose serious challenges.
Renewed Focus on High-Altitude Safety
The incident on Mount Makalu serves as a sobering reminder of the risks inherent in Himalayan expeditions, particularly during winter. While advances in equipment and forecasting have improved safety, climbing peaks above 8,000 metres remains extremely dangerous.
As rescue efforts continue for Abolfazl Gozali, the mountaineering community is mourning the loss of Phurba Ongel Sherpa and hoping for positive news amid the ongoing search. The tragedy underscores both the courage of those who venture into the high Himalayas and the profound respect such mountains command.
