As the fall climbing season for Manaslu begins, mountaineers and adventure enthusiasts are once again setting their sights on this iconic peak, known as the ‘Mountain of Spirits.’ With a rich history of expeditions and a growing reputation as a popular destination for high-altitude climbers, Manaslu remains a top choice for both seasoned and novice mountaineers.
The first recorded reconnaissance of Manaslu dates back to 1950 when a five-member British West Nepal Expedition, led by the legendary Bill Tilman, set out to explore the region. Though their primary objective was Annapurna, the team glimpsed Manaslu from Bumtang, marking the mountain as a potential target for future climbs. Three months later, Tilman and J.O.M. Roberts reached Larkya La Col and confirmed that a northern route to the summit was possible, although they did not attempt it.
A few years later, Japanese alpinists began their quest to conquer Manaslu. After several attempts, on May 9, 1956, Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu of Japan made the first successful ascent of the peak, marking a historic moment in mountaineering.
Since then, Manaslu has attracted a growing number of climbers. By the end of 2023, a total of 775 expeditions had attempted the mountain: 568 in autumn, 182 in spring, and 24 in winter. Notably, no teams have climbed Manaslu during the summer monsoon, except for the original 1950 reconnaissance by Bill Tilman and his team.
The fall season has seen the most activity, with outfitters increasingly focusing on Manaslu as a prime destination for high-altitude tourists. This is largely because the spring season is dominated by expeditions to Everest, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and Makalu.
Manaslu’s climbing record reflects a unique challenge. Although many climbers have stopped at a fore summit, the total number of summits, including these, reached 3,317 by the end of 2023. Among them, less than one-third (843 climbers) summited without the use of bottled oxygen.
The majority of successful summits (2,983) occurred in the autumn season, with only 312 climbers reaching the top in spring, and a mere 22 succeeding in winter.
Despite the growing popularity of Manaslu, it remains a dangerous endeavor. A total of 90 climbers have lost their lives on the mountain, including 46 in spring, 42 in autumn, and 2 in winter.
In recent years, Manaslu has become a popular choice not only for experienced mountaineers but also for beginners and those aiming to summit all 8,000-meter peaks. The mountain’s appeal lies in its relatively accessible routes and the support provided by experienced outfitters.
As the 2024 autumn season kicks off, climbers from around the world are once again preparing to test their limits on Manaslu, continuing the legacy of exploration on this majestic Himalayan peak.
