Renowned Nepali mountaineer and IFMGA/UIAGM-certified guide Jyamchang Bhote has successfully summited Mount Everest for the 10th time, reaching the world’s highest peak early on the morning of May 23 during the Spring 2026 climbing season.
The 45-year-old climber from Sankhuwasabha was leading a team that included members of the United Kingdom’s special ranger force. In total, the expedition achieved a successful summit with nine British Army personnel and 14 Nepali climbers, marking another major international collaboration on Everest.
Bhote’s latest ascent was carried out under the management of Himalayan Sherpa Adventure, further strengthening his long-standing association with international military and high-altitude expeditions. “I scaled Everest with the British Army team in 2025, and luckily again this season with the British military,” Bhote said, reflecting on his continued partnership with UK expedition teams.
Strong Team Success with IFMGA Guides Leading the Expedition
According to expedition details, a total of 25 climbers reached the summit, including nine British Army personnel and 15 Nepali guides. Bhote highlighted that among the Nepali team, five were IFMGA-certified mountain guides, underscoring the high level of professional expertise involved in the expedition. The successful ascent is being seen as another example of Nepal’s growing role in guiding and supporting international military and adventure expeditions in the Himalayas.
A Career Built on Himalayan Giants and Global Peaks
Bhote’s mountaineering journey spans more than two decades and includes some of the most challenging peaks in the world. His early achievements include Island Peak (2000) and Mera Peak (2001), followed by major 8,000-meter summits such as Cho Oyu (8,201m) and Shishapangma (8,013m) in 2003.
He first summited Everest from the north side in 2004, beginning a series of successful ascents on the mountain. Over the years, he has completed Everest climbs in 2004, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011, twice in 2012 with the Indian Army, 2021, 2025, and now 2026, marking his 10th successful ascent.
Expeditions Beyond the Himalayas
Beyond Nepal, Bhote has also expanded his mountaineering footprint globally. He has summited Vinson Massif in Antarctica, marking a significant polar achievement, and has led guiding expeditions to the South Pole and the Emperor Penguin Colony at Gould Bay. During his 2025 Everest expedition, he carried an environmentally themed flag to raise awareness on climate action, forest conservation, and environmental protection, reflecting his commitment to sustainability in mountaineering.
Leadership in Mountaineering Education and Training
In addition to his guiding career, Bhote is actively involved in training and developing the next generation of climbers. He serves as a senior instructor for both the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association (NMIA), conducting training ranging from basic rock climbing for students to advanced courses for professional guides.
He is also a life member of the US Nepal Climbers Association, a former executive board member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA), a general member of the NMA, and an associate member of the Everest Summiteers Association.
Jyamchang Bhote’s 10th Everest summit adds another milestone to an already distinguished mountaineering career that spans the Himalayas and beyond. His leadership in guiding international teams and contribution to mountaineering education continues to highlight Nepal’s central role in global high-altitude expeditions.
