The Spring 2026 mountaineering season has officially begun on Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m), located in Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality–4, with the first successful summit of the season achieved by a multinational expedition team on Saturday. The world’s seventh-highest peak witnessed its first ascent of the season as climbers from China, Switzerland, and Nepal reached the summit under the management of Imagine Nepal company.
First Successful Summit of the Season
According to the expedition organizer, four foreign climbers and five Nepali Sherpa guides successfully reached the summit as part of the Spring 2026 climbing push. The team included Liu Hong, Liu Yishi, and Wang Zhong from China, Kristin Vogondi from Switzerland, along with experienced Nepali climbers Fur Gyalzen Sherpa, Pasang Namgel Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Nuru Sherpa, and Pemba Chhiri Sherpa.
The team successfully stood atop Dhaulagiri at 11:40 am on Saturday before safely returning to Camp III after completing the descent. Expedition leader Fur Gyalzen Sherpa confirmed that the summit push was executed smoothly with strong coordination among team members and support staff.
Sherpa Team Clears Route and Ensures Safety
The successful ascent was made possible after the Sherpa team established the route by fixing ropes across the icy and technical sections of the mountain. Their efforts enabled the climbers to safely navigate the steep and challenging terrain leading to the summit.
Dhaulagiri is widely regarded as one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks due to its unpredictable weather conditions, steep slopes, and high avalanche risk. The contribution of experienced Sherpa climbers remains crucial in ensuring both safety and success during such expeditions.
Climbing Permits and Government Revenue
According to the Department of Tourism, a total of three expedition groups have obtained permits for the Spring 2026 Dhaulagiri climbing season. These groups include 12 female and 16 male climbers. The department has collected Rs 12.56 million in royalty fees from the issued permits, according to Section Officer Sharmila Banjade. In the previous autumn season, 36 climbers had obtained permits for Dhaulagiri expeditions, reflecting the steady interest in the peak among international mountaineering communities.
One of the Most Challenging Himalayan Peaks
Dhaulagiri is considered one of the most technically demanding and hazardous peaks in the Himalayas. Rapidly changing weather conditions, extreme cold, and avalanche-prone slopes make it a serious challenge even for experienced climbers.
The mountain was first successfully summited on May 13, 1960, by an Austrian-led expedition team including Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nima Dorje, and Nawang Dorje, marking a historic milestone in Himalayan mountaineering.
Growing Momentum for Spring 2026 Expeditions
The successful ascent of Dhaulagiri marks an encouraging start to the Spring 2026 climbing season in Nepal. With favorable weather windows opening across the Himalayas, more expedition teams are expected to attempt summits of major peaks in the coming weeks. Authorities and expedition operators anticipate increased activity on several 8,000-meter mountains, signaling a busy and promising season for Nepal’s mountaineering sector.
