Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, popularly known as “Nims,” has achieved a historic milestone by completing his 50th true ascent of an 8,000-metre peak after successfully summiting Dhaulagiri (8,167m) on April 18. The landmark ascent, accomplished without the use of supplemental oxygen, further cements Purja’s position as one of the most accomplished high-altitude climbers in the world.
Historic Summit with International Team
Purja reached the summit of Dhaulagiri at around 3:00 PM as part of an expedition organized by Elite Exped. He was joined by climbers Ksenia Shapovalova, who achieved her first-ever 8,000-metre summit, and Lakpa Tenjen Sherpa.
The expedition company acknowledged the contribution of the Imagine Nepal team, led by Mingma G, for successfully fixing the route on Dhaulagiri, an essential task that ensured a safe and efficient ascent for climbers. Purja’s latest feat marks a significant chapter in his already extraordinary career, which has redefined modern high-altitude mountaineering through speed, endurance, and consistency.
Double Success: Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in a Single Day
In a remarkable display of coordination and strength, Elite Exped achieved a rare double success on the same day by securing summits on both Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I (8,091m). Earlier on April 18, the company’s rope-fixing team successfully reached the summit of Annapurna at 4:32 AM. The four-member team included Sujal Gurung, Pemba Chhewang Sherpa, Dacchetar Sherpa, and Phura Dorji Sherpa, who played a crucial role in opening the route for other climbers.
They were followed by six climbers and guides who summited at 6:32 AM, including international climbers Svetlana Erofeeva of Russia and Victoria Ann Tracey of Denmark, along with Nepali guides Pur Bahadur Gurung, Sandip Gurung, Bikash Gurung, and Nima Sherpa. All members of the Annapurna team have safely returned to base camp.
Overcoming Harsh Conditions
According to Elite Exped, the Annapurna ascent was particularly challenging due to unstable weather conditions during rope fixing and camp rotations. Despite these obstacles, the team demonstrated resilience, patience, and technical expertise to achieve a successful summit. The successful climbs on both peaks within hours of each other highlight the growing capability and professionalism of Nepali-led expedition teams in handling extreme Himalayan conditions.
A Season of Rapid High-Altitude Success
The Spring 2026 climbing season has witnessed an impressive start, with successful ascents already recorded on four of the world’s 14 highest peaks, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, and Lhotse, within the early phase of the season. Multiple teams have reported summits across these peaks on the same day, indicating favorable climbing windows and efficient expedition logistics.
Purja’s Legacy in High-Altitude Mountaineering
Nirmal Purja has gained global recognition for his groundbreaking achievements, including completing all 14 eight-thousanders in record time. His continued success, including this 50th ascent milestone, reflects his unmatched determination and physical endurance. Climbing without supplemental oxygen on one of the world’s most challenging peaks further underscores his elite status in the mountaineering community.
Strengthening Nepal’s Global Mountaineering Reputation
Purja’s achievement and the simultaneous success of multiple Nepali climbers reinforce Nepal’s dominance in high-altitude mountaineering. Nepali guides and expedition companies continue to play a leading role in global Himalayan expeditions, setting new standards of excellence and safety.
As the climbing season progresses, more summit attempts are expected on the remaining peaks, with climbers taking advantage of early-season opportunities. Purja’s record-setting ascent of Dhaulagiri not only adds to his personal legacy but also stands as a proud moment for Nepal, showcasing the country’s enduring leadership in the world of extreme mountaineering.
