Nepal’s mountaineering community is mourning the loss of one of its most accomplished climbers after veteran high-altitude guide Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta” was confirmed dead following the devastating avalanche that struck Broad Peak (8,047 metres) in Pakistan’s Karakoram Range on July 30.
The death of Gurung, an internationally respected mountaineer, expedition leader, and IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide, marks a significant loss for Nepal’s mountaineering fraternity. He was widely recognized for his remarkable climbing achievements, unwavering professionalism, and dedication to guiding climbers safely on some of the world’s highest peaks.
A Distinguished Career in the Himalayas
Born in Gorkha, Nepal, Pur Bahadur Gurung built an extraordinary career in high-altitude mountaineering spanning many years. Throughout his career, he successfully summited 8,000-metre peaks 28 times, including 10 successful ascents of Mount Everest and two ascents of K2, making him one of Nepal’s most experienced and respected mountain guides.
As an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide, Pur Bahadur Gurung ‘Yukta’ earned international recognition for his technical expertise, leadership, and commitment to mountain safety. He served as a trusted expedition leader on numerous Himalayan and Karakoram expeditions and mentored many aspiring climbers throughout his career. His professionalism, humility, and calm leadership made him a highly respected figure among climbers, expedition companies, and the global mountaineering community.
Avalanche Claims the Life of a Himalayan Legend
According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), Pur Bahadur Gurung ‘Yukta’ lost his life after a powerful avalanche struck Broad Peak during a summit push on Thursday. The avalanche swept through a 10-member international expedition led by renowned climber Nirmal “Nims” Purja, leaving several climbers missing.
On Friday, the ACP confirmed that rescuers had recovered the bodies of Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta” of Nepal and Nadhira Al Harthy of Oman. The body of Al Harthy has been transported by helicopter to Skardu, while arrangements are underway to transport Gurung’s body. The ACP stated that search and rescue operations remain ongoing for the remaining missing climbers.
Trusted Expedition Leader Alongside Nirmal Purja
Pur Bahadur Gurung was regarded as one of the most trusted senior guides working alongside renowned British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Nims” Purja. Over the years, he played a key role in leading challenging expeditions across Nepal and Pakistan, earning admiration for his experience and composure in extreme mountain environments.
Fellow climbers described Gurung as a dedicated professional who inspired countless mountaineers through his courage, technical skill, and willingness to support others in the mountains. His death has deeply saddened Nepal’s climbing community, where he was respected not only for his impressive summit record but also for his kindness and commitment to helping fellow climbers achieve their dreams safely.
International Search Continues
The Broad Peak expedition consisted of 10 climbers from five countries, including five Nepali climbers, Nirmal “Nims” Purja, Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta,” Kili Pemba Sherpa “Kilu,” Nima Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, and Nawang Thindu Sherpa, along with Sohail Sakhi of Pakistan, Wang Zhong of China, Mallory Geis of the United States, and Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy of Oman.
According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, four bodies have been recovered following the avalanche, while search and rescue teams continue efforts to locate the remaining missing climbers. Authorities have urged the public and media to rely only on officially verified information as rescue operations continue in the difficult terrain of the Karakoram.
Nepal Government Closely Monitoring the Situation
Nepal’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs said it is closely monitoring developments following the Broad Peak avalanche. The Ministry stated that Nepal’s Embassy in Islamabad is working closely with Pakistani authorities, including the Alpine Club of Pakistan, to facilitate search and rescue efforts for all affected mountaineers. According to the Ministry, Pakistani authorities have assured Nepal that every available resource is being mobilized to support the ongoing rescue mission despite the challenging weather and terrain.
A Lasting Legacy
Pur Bahadur Gurung’s passing represents an immense loss for Nepal and the global mountaineering community. His extraordinary achievements, including 28 successful ascents of 8,000-metre peaks, placed him among Nepal’s elite climbers, while his leadership and humility earned him the respect of mountaineers worldwide.
Having dedicated his life to the mountains, Gurung leaves behind a legacy of courage, professionalism, and service that will continue to inspire future generations of climbers. As rescue efforts continue on Broad Peak, Nepal remembers one of its finest mountaineers, a man whose life was defined by the Himalayas and whose legacy will endure far beyond them.
