The Spring 2026 climbing season on Mount Makalu (8,485m), the world’s fifth-highest mountain, officially began on Saturday evening after a rope-fixing team from Seven Summit Treks successfully reached the summit at 5:40 PM, opening the route for subsequent expedition teams.
The achievement marks the first successful ascent of Makalu this season and is considered a critical milestone in enabling further summit attempts on one of the Himalayas’ most technically demanding 8,000-meter peaks.
Rope-Fixing Team Opens Route for Climbers
The six-member fixing team that reached the summit comprised experienced high-altitude Sherpa climbers and guides: Dawa Sherpa (Speed Dawa), Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pema Chhumbi Sherpa, Mohan Singh Tamang, Phurbu Kusang Sherpa, and Phudorchi Sherpa.
The team successfully established fixed ropes along the upper sections of the mountain, clearing the final route for commercial expedition teams scheduled to follow in the coming days. Their ascent is crucial in ensuring safer passage through Makalu’s steep ice faces and exposed ridges.
Significance for Seven Summit Treks
The summit holds special importance for Seven Summit Treks, as the company’s directors originate from the Makalu region. Over the years, the company has played a leading role in rope-fixing and expedition support operations on the mountain, contributing significantly to its commercial climbing infrastructure.
Officials from the company described the ascent as both a technical success and a symbolic achievement tied to their long-standing association with the region and its mountaineering heritage.
Third 8,000-Meter Peak Opened This Season
With the successful opening of Makalu, three of Nepal’s 8,000-meter peaks have now recorded their first summits in the Spring 2026 season. Earlier this month, climbers successfully summited Annapurna I (8,091m) and Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m), both signaling a strong and active start to the climbing season. The sequential openings of these major peaks indicate favorable weather windows and well-coordinated expedition efforts across Nepal’s high-altitude climbing sector.
Makalu: A Technically Demanding Giant
Makalu is widely regarded as one of the most challenging mountains in the world due to its sharp ridges, steep pitches, and exposure to extreme weather conditions. Located on the Nepal–Tibet border in the Mahalangur Himalayas, approximately 19 kilometres southeast of Mount Everest, the peak demands advanced technical skill and high-altitude experience from climbers. Despite its difficulty, Makalu remains a sought-after objective for elite mountaineers, with successful ascents often dependent on precise route preparation and stable weather conditions.
Spring Season Expected to Intensify
With Makalu now officially opened for summit attempts, expedition operators anticipate increased climbing activity in the coming weeks. Teams currently acclimatizing in higher camps are expected to begin their summit rotations soon, as Nepal’s Spring 2026 Himalayan season continues to progress across multiple 8,000-meter peaks.
