Climbing Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak is not just an adventurous feat but also a perilous and sensitive journey. Reaching the summit by clearing snow and crossing rocky terrains is a challenging task. Doing this not once or twice, but 30 times, is an extraordinary achievement. However, for world-renowned record-holding climber Kami Rita Sherpa, it has become almost routine.
Kami Rita is now preparing for his 31st ascent of Everest this spring, aiming to break his record of 30 ascents, which he set in 2024. His previous record of 28 summits was already the highest in the world. Sherpa said he is leaving for Everest in a few days, though how many times he can summit depends on the weather and mountain conditions.
He emphasized that he climbs Everest not for records, but because it’s his profession. This time, he will guide a team from the Indian Army through Seven Summit Treks Pvt. Ltd. Sherpa also pointed out the need for the government to ensure social security for climbers who repeatedly risk their lives. He also expressed concern over the melting glaciers due to climate change, which he has witnessed firsthand during his climbs.
Originally from Thame in Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, 55-year-old Kami Rita first summited Everest on May 13, 1994. He holds the record for the most ascents of peaks over 8,000 meters. Last year, Pasang Dawa Sherpa from Solukhumbu tied his record with 28 ascents, but Kami Rita reclaimed the lead by reaching 30.
He stated that his records are not due to competition but because mountain climbing is his profession. Mingma Sherpa, chairman of Seven Summit Treks, expressed pride that Kami Rita is climbing again under his company. “This record is a matter of national pride, not just personal or company success,” he said. Over 400 climbers have lost their lives on Everest so far, underscoring the dangers of such expeditions. That’s why Sherpa leaders have urged the government to prioritize climbers’ safety and provide proper budgeting for mountain clean-up operations.
According to Secretary-General of the Everest Climbers’ Association, Shiva Bahadur Sapkota, this climbing season is expected to be very active, with several new records likely. Following the latest mountaineering regulations (Sixth Amendment 2081), record attempts now require formal government approval. As of Wednesday, 311 climbers 58 women and 253 men from 30 expedition groups have received permits to climb Everest this season, generating over NPR 460 million in royalties for the government. Total royalties from all-mountain expeditions stand at NPR 526.4 million.
According to Director Liladhar Awasthi of the Department of Tourism, 74 expedition teams have received permits to climb 21 different mountains. The route up to Everest’s second camp has already been built, and expert Sherpas will soon start fixing ropes to the summit. The Everest Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) is responsible for building the trail up to the second camp, while the Expedition Operators’ Association will manage rope-fixing from Camp II to the summit. Atka Expedition Company has been assigned this responsibility.
The history of Everest climbing began with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa on May 29, 1953. According to the Department of Tourism’s publication “Mountaineering in Nepal: Facts and Figures 2023,” a total of 7,626 people had summited Everest as of 2023. With the 2024 climbs, that number is expected to surpass 8,000. New records continue to be set, though some climbers have tragically lost their lives during the ascent.
