Renowned Nepali mountaineer Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, popularly known as Mingma G, has announced that he will no longer attempt to climb Mount Everest, declaring that his successful ascent on May 22 this year marked his final summit of the world’s highest mountain.
“My May 22 summit on Everest was my last on the world’s highest peak,” Mingma G said after returning from the mountain. The veteran climber led an international expedition team to the summit during the 2026 spring climbing season, guiding dozens of climbers under his company Imagine Nepal Treks. On the same day, the company recorded a remarkable 44 successful Everest summits.
The announcement marks the end of an important chapter in the career of one of Nepal’s most accomplished high-altitude climbers, who has spent nearly two decades on some of the world’s most dangerous mountains.
One of Nepal’s Greatest High-Altitude Climbers
Mingma G is widely regarded as one of the strongest climbers of his generation and holds several historic records in international mountaineering. He became the first Nepali climber to summit all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters without using supplemental oxygen, a feat considered among the highest achievements in mountaineering.
He completed the extraordinary challenge in 2024 after successfully summiting Shishapangma at 8,027 meters without bottled oxygen. Over the years, he completed all 14 eight-thousanders in pure alpine style, relying solely on natural acclimatization and endurance.
His oxygen-free ascents include Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga and Everest in 2022; Manaslu in 2021; Gasherbrum II in 2019; Lhotse and Broad Peak in 2018; K2, Makalu and Nanga Parbat in 2017; Gasherbrum I in 2016; and Annapurna in 2015.
Everest, K2 and Historic Winter Climbs
Mingma G began his climbing career in 2006 and quickly rose to international prominence through a series of difficult and historic expeditions. He climbed Everest seven times, in 2007, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2016, 2022 and 2026, while also summiting K2 five times.
He has climbed Manaslu seven times, Kanchenjunga twice, Makalu twice, Broad Peak twice, Cho Oyu twice, Dhaulagiri twice and Annapurna twice. He has also successfully climbed Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Shishapangma.
Among his most celebrated achievements was becoming one of the ten Nepali climbers involved in the historic first winter ascent of K2 in 2021, where he also served as team leader. His summit of Nanga Parbat in autumn 2017 was another major milestone, becoming the first autumn ascent of the peak in mountaineering history.
In December 2024, Mingma G completed the prestigious “Seven Summits” challenge by climbing the highest mountains on all seven continents. In the same year, he also skied to the South Pole, becoming one of only a few Nepalis to achieve the feat.
From Rolwaling to the World Stage
Originally from Rolwaling Valley in Dolakha district, a region famous for producing elite climbers, Mingma G has also pioneered new routes and first ascents in the Himalayas. He became the first climber to summit Mt Cheki-Go, Mt Bamongo and Mt Chobuje via previously unclimbed western routes.
Beyond his climbing records, Mingma G has played a major role in promoting Nepal’s mountaineering industry globally through Imagine Nepal Treks. He is also known for his strong advocacy of ethical climbing practices and high-altitude professionalism among Nepali guides.
Although retiring from Everest, Mingma G said he may still attempt Lhotse next spring, which could mark the conclusion of his climbing journey in the Everest region.
