Renowned mountaineers Nima Rinji Sherpa and Italian alpinist Simone Moro have successfully completed the first phase of acclimatization for their planned winter ascent of Manaslu (8,163 meters). The duo, who departed Kathmandu on December 3, 2025, undertook the climb as part of rigorous preparation for one of the most challenging peaks in the Himalayas during winter.
According to a post shared by Nima Rinji Sherpa on Wednesday, the climbers left High Camp at 7:30 AM and reached the summit at 9:50 AM, completing the climb in 2 hours and 20 minutes. This initial acclimatization climb is crucial for adapting to high-altitude conditions before attempting the main winter ascent. Their expedition is being managed by 14 Peaks Expedition, which is coordinating logistics, safety measures, and other preparatory arrangements for the challenging endeavor.
Ambitious Winter Ascent in Pure Alpine Style
The climbers aim to summit Manaslu in pure alpine style, meaning the ascent will be undertaken without supplemental oxygen, Sherpa support, fixed ropes, or a large base camp. This minimalist approach is considered one of the most demanding methods of high-altitude mountaineering, requiring exceptional endurance, technical skill, and mental resilience. Last winter, the pair had to abort a similar attempt due to severe weather conditions, underscoring the extreme risks involved in a winter climb of Manaslu.
Further Acclimatization Planned on Mera Peak
Following the initial phase, Nima Rinji and Moro will continue acclimatizing on Mera Peak, a popular training climb for high-altitude mountaineers. A Polish videographer will accompany them to document the expedition, capturing both the technical challenges and the stunning Himalayan landscapes. This strategic approach ensures the climbers are well-prepared for the harsh winter conditions that have historically made Manaslu a formidable peak for winter ascents.
Climbers’ Notable Achievements
Simone Moro is widely regarded for his expertise in winter mountaineering, having undertaken six winter attempts on Manaslu since 2015. He is celebrated for achieving the first winter ascents of four eight-thousanders, making him one of the most experienced winter alpinists in the world.
Nima Rinji Sherpa, meanwhile, holds the distinction of being the youngest person to summit all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters, demonstrating exceptional skill, stamina, and determination. His collaboration with Moro combines youth, energy, and experience with technical mastery, creating a strong team for this ambitious expedition.
Winter Climbing Challenges and Significance
Winter ascents of Himalayan peaks are notoriously difficult due to extreme cold, high winds, avalanche risks, and short daylight hours. A successful climb of Manaslu in winter will not only mark a significant achievement in mountaineering history but will also showcase Nepal’s high-altitude climbing potential to the global community.
The expedition reflects a growing trend of alpine-style winter climbs, which emphasize self-reliance, technical skill, and environmental responsibility over traditional expedition methods. With preparations underway and acclimatization progressing smoothly, the climbing world eagerly awaits the winter attempt by Nima Rinji Sherpa and Simone Moro, which promises to be a remarkable demonstration of skill, courage, and endurance in the Himalayas.
