Legendary Nepali mountaineer Sanu Sherpa has once again etched his name into the annals of high-altitude climbing, successfully summiting Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m) for the third time on April 18. The ascent, achieved as part of a 17-member expedition organized by Pioneer Adventure Pvt Ltd., marks a significant step in his pursuit of an unprecedented global record, climbing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks three times.
Closing in on an Unprecedented World Record
With this latest summit, Sanu Sherpa has now climbed 12 out of the 14 eight-thousanders three times, leaving only Cho Oyu (8,188m) and Shishapangma (8,027m) to complete his historic third round. No climber in history has achieved this feat, placing Sanu Sherpa on the brink of redefining the limits of endurance and consistency in mountaineering.
According to expedition officials, Sanu Sherpa reached the summit on Friday morning during the 2026 spring climbing season. The climb is not only a testament to his physical resilience but also to his deep experience in navigating some of the most challenging terrains on Earth.
A Career Defined by Record-Breaking Achievements
Originally from the Makalu region of Sankhuwasabha District, Sherpa has long been a towering figure in the mountaineering world. Sanu Sherpa previously became the first climber ever to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, a milestone that secured his place among the greatest high-altitude climbers of all time.
Over the course of his career, Sanu Sherpa has climbed peaks above 8,000 meters more than 40 times, showcasing unmatched consistency in one of the most dangerous pursuits in the world. His continued ambition to complete a third full circuit of the eight-thousanders reflects not only personal determination but also a broader legacy for Nepali climbers on the global stage.
Triumph Amid Challenges and Tragedy
Sherpa’s journey toward this record has not been without hardship. Earlier this year, in January, he completed a rare winter ascent of Mount Makalu (8,485m), one of the most technically demanding peaks in the Himalayas. The climb, undertaken alongside Iranian mountaineer Abolfazl Gozali, was celebrated as a remarkable achievement in extreme winter mountaineering.
However, the expedition was overshadowed by tragedy. Fellow climber Phurba Ongel Sherpa lost his life during the descent, while Gozali was reported missing. Subsequent search and rescue efforts were eventually called off due to severe weather conditions, underscoring the inherent dangers of high-altitude expeditions. Despite these challenges, Sherpa has continued his pursuit with unwavering focus, honoring both the risks and responsibilities that come with such ambitious undertakings.
The Final Ascent Ahead
With only Cho Oyu and Shishapangma remaining, the Sherpa’s path toward a historic third completion of all 14 eight-thousanders is now clearly in sight. Both peaks, located along the Nepal–Tibet region, are considered more accessible compared to some of the more technically demanding mountains he has already conquered, though they still present significant logistical and environmental challenges.
If successful, Sanu Sherpa will not only set a new world record but also further elevate Nepal’s reputation as the heartland of elite mountaineering. His achievements continue to inspire a new generation of climbers, reinforcing the country’s legacy in the global climbing community. As the 2026 climbing season progresses, the mountaineering world will be watching closely, anticipating what could become one of the most remarkable accomplishments in the history of Himalayan exploration.
