Renowned Italian alpinist and high-altitude helicopter pilot Simone Moro was evacuated from above 5,000 metres in the Mt Everest region on Saturday afternoon after suffering a cardiac arrest, sources confirmed. The incident occurred while Moro was returning from an acclimatization climb of Mera Peak, one of Nepal’s most popular high-altitude trekking peaks.
According to sources familiar with the incident, Moro suffered cardiac arrest at Khare (5,045 metres), a key settlement and base for climbers attempting Mera Peak (6,476 metres). Given the seriousness of his condition and the high-altitude setting, an emergency evacuation was immediately initiated.
Emergency Airlift to Kathmandu
Moro was airlifted from Khare by a Fishtail Helicopter and transported to Kathmandu, where he was admitted to HAMS Hospital for advanced medical treatment. Swift coordination between local teams and aviation services ensured his rapid evacuation from the remote Himalayan region to the capital.
Hospital officials later confirmed that Moro underwent coronary artery bypass graft (CABG) surgery shortly after his arrival. He is currently receiving treatment in the intensive care unit (ICU). Doctors attending him stated that his condition is stable and that he is responding well to post-operative care. “Once Moro fell ill at Khare, he was immediately evacuated to Kathmandu for treatment,” a source said, highlighting the prompt response that proved critical in stabilizing his condition.
Acclimatization Ahead of Winter Manaslu Attempt
At the time of the incident, Moro was in the Mera Peak region for acclimatization ahead of a planned winter ascent of Manaslu (8,163 metres), the world’s eighth-highest mountain. He was accompanied by Nima Rinji Sherpa, the world’s youngest climber to have summited all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, and Polish photographer Oswald Rodrigo Pereira.
As part of their acclimatization schedule, Moro and Nima Rinji left Mera Peak High Camp at 7:30 am on December 11 and reached the summit at 9:50 am, completing the climb in two hours and 20 minutes. Pereira summited Mera Peak solo a day later, on December 12, completing a single push from Khare in six hours and 15 minutes. The team had planned to use Mera Peak to prepare their bodies for the extreme demands of a winter Manaslu expedition, which they intended to attempt in pure alpine style.
A Bold Alpine-Style Vision
Moro and Nima Rinji had aimed to attempt Manaslu this winter without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support, an approach considered among the most demanding in mountaineering. Attempting an 8,000-metre peak in winter already ranks as one of the toughest achievements in the sport, and doing so in alpine style significantly raises the level of risk and difficulty.
To date, Manaslu has seen only four winter expeditions, with a total of 15 climbers successfully summiting the mountain during the winter season. According to Moro, no 8,000-metre peak has yet been climbed in winter in pure alpine style, without oxygen, Sherpa support, fixed ropes, or a luxury base camp. Sources said Moro would make a formal announcement regarding his upcoming Manaslu expedition after being discharged from the hospital.
Persistence on Manaslu
This was not the first time Moro and Nima Rinji had set their sights on Manaslu in winter. In January last year, the duo abandoned their attempt due to severe weather conditions that made an alpine-style summit push impossible. Between 2015 and 2025, Moro attempted a winter summit of Manaslu six times, demonstrating extraordinary persistence and commitment to pushing the boundaries of Himalayan mountaineering.
Manaslu, located in the Himalayas on the border of Nepal and Tibet, rises to 8,163 metres and forms part of the Manaslu (Mansiri) Himal range in west-central Nepal. Known for its technical challenges and harsh winter conditions, the mountain remains one of the ultimate tests for elite alpinists.
A Legendary Mountaineering Career
Born on October 27, 1967, Simone Moro is widely regarded as one of the world’s greatest alpinists. He is the only climber to have achieved four first winter ascents on 8,000-metre peaks: Shishapangma (2005), Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011), and Nanga Parbat (2016). In addition, he has summited Mt Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.
An experienced high-altitude helicopter pilot, Moro has visited Nepal more than 110 times, playing a crucial role not only in elite mountaineering but also in rescue operations across the Himalayas. His latest medical emergency has drawn widespread concern within the global climbing community, which now awaits updates on his recovery and plans.
