Ukrainian high-altitude climber Valentyn Sypavin successfully summited Mount Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak at 8,485 metres, on May 8, alongside Nepali Sherpa guide Dawa Tenjen Sherpa. According to Lakpa Sherpa, the duo reached the summit at 2:00 PM Nepal time after a challenging climb through the demanding high-altitude terrain of eastern Nepal. The expedition was organized under 8K Expeditions, one of Nepal’s leading high-altitude guiding companies, known for facilitating major Himalayan ascents.
Veteran Climber with Global Achievements
Sypavin, 42, is the founder of Ukrainian adventure company Alpomania and is widely regarded as one of the most accomplished active high-altitude climbers in the world. He has successfully summited Mount Everest eight times and has also climbed other major Himalayan peaks, including K2 and Lhotse.
Beyond mountaineering, Sypavin holds a Guinness World Record for the highest-altitude kayaking expedition, achieved at 6,370 metres in the Atacama region of Chile. He is also a former vice-champion of the Ice Climbing World Cup, reflecting his diverse background in extreme sports.
Second Major Summit in Spring Season
The Makalu summit marks Sypavin’s second major Himalayan success with 8K Expeditions this spring season. Earlier, he successfully climbed Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m), further strengthening his record of multiple 8,000-metre peaks within a single expedition cycle.
Expedition organizers stated that both climbers demonstrated strong endurance and technical expertise throughout the ascent, particularly in the steep and unpredictable sections of Makalu, which is known for its challenging ridges and rapidly changing weather conditions.
Sherpa Guide from Sankhuwasabha
Sypavin was accompanied by experienced Sherpa guide Dawa Tenjen Sherpa, a native of Makalu-03 in Sankhuwasabha district. He works regularly with 8K Expeditions and has extensive experience guiding climbers on technical Himalayan routes. His role was crucial in supporting the summit push, ensuring safety and navigation through one of the most demanding sections of the mountain.
Next Objectives: Everest and Lhotse
Following the successful Makalu ascent, the duo is now preparing for their next major objectives, Everest and Lhotse. Sypavin has previously completed both peaks as part of a traverse in 2021 and 2023 in collaboration with 8K Expeditions.
Mount Makalu, often regarded as one of the most technically difficult 8,000-metre peaks due to its steep pyramid shape and exposed ridges, is considered a significant achievement even among elite mountaineers. Expedition organizers said the successful summit adds another milestone to Sypavin’s Himalayan record and highlights continued international collaboration in Nepal’s high-altitude climbing sector.
