A Chinese climber Shi Junji’s expedition team have made mountaineering history by becoming the first team to successfully summit both Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse in the 2026 spring climbing season.
The achievement marks a rare and demanding “double summit” accomplishment, conquering two of the world’s highest and most technically challenging peaks within a single expedition cycle.
Successful Everest Summit on May 14 by the Shi Junji Team
The expedition team of Shi Junji first reached the summit of Mount Everest (8,848.86m) on May 14 at 8:56 AM, becoming the second team of the season to stand on the world’s highest peak after the rope-fixing team.
This successful ascent was conducted under the Himalayan Mountaineering Expedition, marking a strong start to their ambitious dual-peak mission.
Lhotse Summit Completed on May 18
Continuing their expedition, the same team successfully summited Mount Lhotse (8,516m) on May 18 at 11:25 AM, after returning safely to Camp II for rest and recovery following their Everest climb.
With this ascent, the team officially became the first expedition group of 2026 to summit both Everest and Lhotse in a single season.
Extraordinary Endurance and Strategic Climbing
According to expedition organizers, the team demonstrated exceptional endurance, strength, and determination by not remaining at higher camps after Everest, but instead descending to Camp II before launching their Lhotse push.
Normally, climbers attempt Lhotse directly from higher camps on Everest. However, this team’s decision to descend and regroup before re-attempting added a unique logistical challenge to their achievement.
Expedition operator Utsav Pathak confirmed that the team completed climbs of both Everest (8,848.86m) and Lhotse (8,516m) in a highly strategic and disciplined manner.
Summit Team Members
The successful expedition team included:
- Shi Junji (China)
- Ngima Dorje Sherpa (Nepal)
- Dawa Nuru Sherpa (Nepal)
Nepali guides played a crucial role in ensuring safety, route management, and summit success in extreme Himalayan conditions.
Rope Fixing and Expedition Context
The team had earlier reached Everest shortly after the rope-fixing team, marking one of the early summit pushes of the season. Their coordinated effort with the Himalayan Mountaineering Expedition contributed to the successful execution of both climbs.
Strong Season for Nepali Climbing Records
The same expedition season has also witnessed major Nepali mountaineering achievements, including:
- Legendary climber Kami Rita Sherpa is completing his 32nd Everest summit, setting a new world record.
- Female climber Lhakpa Sherpa successfully summited Everest for the 11th time, surpassing her own record.
Expedition Overview
This season’s Himalayan climbing operations include:
- A 6-member Everest-only team, and
- A 3-member combined Everest–Lhotse team
Both teams were operated under the Himalayan Mountaineering Expedition.
A Rare Himalayan Feat
Successfully climbing both Everest and Lhotse in a single season remains one of the most physically demanding feats in high-altitude mountaineering due to extreme altitude, rapid weather changes, and technical terrain.
The 2026 achievement by Shi Junji’s team now stands as one of the most significant expedition milestones of the spring season in the Himalayas.
