Nepal’s mountaineering community is mourning the loss of another of its most accomplished climbers after Kili Pemba Sherpa “Kilu”, a world record-holding mountaineer from Beding, Gaurishankar Rural Municipality–9 of Dolakha, was reportedly killed in the devastating avalanche that struck Broad Peak (8,047m) in Pakistan’s Karakoram Range.
According to his uncle and senior mountaineer Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Kili Pemba’s body was recovered on Friday following the avalanche that swept through an international expedition attempting to summit the world’s 12th-highest mountain. While reports of the recovery have emerged from Pakistan, the Government of Nepal had not officially confirmed the deaths of the affected Nepali climbers at the time of reporting.
From High-Altitude Porter to World Record Holder
Kili Pemba Sherpa’s mountaineering journey was one of extraordinary perseverance and determination. Born and raised in the Himalayan village of Beding, he began working as a high-altitude porter at just 18 years of age, carrying heavy expedition loads through some of the world’s most challenging mountain terrain.
Through years of dedication and experience, Kili Pemba Sherpa progressed from porter to climbing guide before eventually becoming one of Nepal’s most accomplished high-altitude mountaineers. His remarkable achievements earned him international recognition and established him among the elite climbers of his generation.
Historic Achievements in Global Mountaineering
Kili Pemba Sherpa achieved two major world records during his distinguished climbing career. In 2025, Kili Pemba Sherpa successfully climbed all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres, becoming one of the select few mountaineers in the world to accomplish the feat. The achievement cemented his place in mountaineering history and highlighted Nepal’s dominance in high-altitude climbing.
Earlier, on 16 January 2021, he was a member of the historic 10-member all-Nepali team that completed the first-ever winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. The achievement was celebrated globally as one of the greatest milestones in modern mountaineering. In addition to these accomplishments, Kili Pemba had successfully summited Mount Everest 15 times, demonstrating remarkable consistency and endurance on the world’s highest peak.
Avalanche Ends a Remarkable Career
Kili Pemba was part of the 10-member international expedition led by renowned mountaineer Nirmal “Nims” Purja, which was attempting to summit Broad Peak when a powerful avalanche struck on Thursday. The expedition included six Nepali climbers, Nirmal Purja, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta,” Nima Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa, and Gyalu Sherpa, along with climbers from Pakistan, China, the United States, and Oman.
The team lost communication shortly after the avalanche, triggering a large-scale search and rescue operation involving the Pakistan Army, the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and local rescue agencies. Kili Pemba’s reported death follows the earlier recovery of fellow Nepali climber Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta.” Rescue operations continue for the remaining climbers who are still missing.
Beding Village in Mourning
News of Kili Pemba’s death has left his hometown of Beding in deep mourning. Ward Chairperson Ngima Geli Sherpa of Gaurishankar Rural Municipality–9 said the entire community was devastated by the loss of a mountaineer who had brought immense pride not only to the village but also to Dolakha District and Nepal.
He described Kili Pemba’s death as an irreparable loss and said the local government would coordinate with concerned authorities to facilitate the return of his body to Nepal. For many young people in the village, Kili Pemba was more than a successful climber; he was an inspiration whose achievements demonstrated that determination and hard work could take a person from a remote Himalayan community to the highest peaks on Earth.
Family Urges Government to Repatriate Body
Following the confirmation from Pakistan, Kili Pemba’s uncle Dawa Chhiri Sherpa appealed to the Government of Nepal to take immediate diplomatic initiatives to bring his nephew’s body home. He requested the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and the Nepal Mountaineering Association to coordinate with Pakistani authorities so that the body could be repatriated to Nepal as soon as possible. The family hopes the late mountaineer can be given a dignified farewell in his homeland.
A Legacy That Will Live On
Kili Pemba Sherpa dedicated nearly three decades of his life to the mountains. From humble beginnings as a young porter to becoming a globally recognized climber with multiple world records, his journey embodied courage, perseverance, and excellence. His contributions extended beyond personal achievements. Every successful expedition carried Nepal’s flag to the world’s highest summits and strengthened the country’s reputation as the home of the world’s finest mountaineers.
Although his final expedition ended in tragedy on Broad Peak, Kili Pemba Sherpa’s extraordinary legacy will continue to inspire generations of climbers. His achievements, humility, and unwavering commitment to the mountains have secured him a permanent place in Nepal’s mountaineering history.
