Gelje Sherpa, who began his mountaineering journey as a porter, is now recognized as a renowned mountaineer. Starting as an icefall doctor and later becoming a successful mountaineering guide, he has achieved several landmark feats in some of the world’s most difficult climbs.
Gelje Sherpa, from Solududhkunda-10, has set multiple records while climbing mountains. At the age of 28, he became the youngest person to successfully summit K2, the world’s second-highest peak, during the winter season on January 16, 2021. This ascent was part of a team of 10 Nepali climbers, including Mingma Ji Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Kilu pemba Sherpa, Sona Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, and Pemchhiri Sherpa.
He has climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters, completing 40 successful ascents. Notably, on January 7, 2023, he was part of the first team to successfully summit Cho Oyu from the Nepal side. Gelje Sherpa has also summited Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, eight times. He is renowned for conducting the highest solo rescue on Everest, a feat that highlights his mountaineering skills as well as his commitment to rescue and assistance operations.
In addition to summiting Everest, Gelje Sherpa made history by being part of the first team to successfully summit Cho Oyu from the Nepal side, establishing a new route, which he named the “Gelje Couloir.” He considers the successful climb of Cho Oyu from Nepal a fulfillment of his dream and shared that while he climbed other mountains personally, Cho Oyu was for Nepal. Gelje Sherpa began his mountaineering career at 13 by successfully summiting Mera Peak. His father, also a mountaineer, inspired him to follow in his footsteps.
Gelje worked as an icefall doctor for five years in the Khumbu Icefall, refining his skills. Since 2010, Gelje Sherpa has been climbing peaks above 6,000 meters, and from 2012 to 2017, he worked as an icefall doctor at the Khumbu Icefall. In 2017, he transitioned to guiding expeditions on peaks above 8,000 meters and has since remained active in the mountaineering field. After more than a decade in mountaineering, Gelje Sherpa founded his own company, “AGA Adventure,” two years ago. With relentless enthusiasm for mountaineering, he continues to share his experiences and inspire the new generation of climbers.
