The elite climbing team, spearheaded by renowned Chinese mountaineer He Jing, first conquered Jyanglatunpu (6,062 m) at approximately 9:25 am, followed by the technically demanding Kekyap Ri (6,187 m) at 12:45 pm on the same day. In a remarkable feat of mountaineering, an expedition led by renowned Chinese climber He Jing has completed the first ascents of two virgin peaks in Nepal’s remote Mustang Himal Range. The team scaled both mountains on February 9, 2026, marking a significant milestone in Himalayan exploration.
The Seven Summit Treks (SST) expedition, supported by outdoor gear manufacturer Pelliot, conquered Jyanglatunpu (6,062 meters) at 9:25 am, followed by Kekyap Ri (6,187 meters) at 12:45 pm on the same day.
Expedition Route and Challenges
The climbing party departed Kathmandu on February 4, utilizing an alternative access route into the Ghyun valley that had been previously identified by an SST reconnaissance team. They established their initial base camp near Ghar Gumba, positioned approximately 200 meters lower than previous expeditions in the region.
Fresh snowfall forced the team to modify their original climbing plan. Instead of attempting the planned couloir, they opted for a ridge route, establishing an overnight camp at the base of Kekyap La pass. After crossing the 5,600-meter pass, they descended into the valley and trekked along the riverbank to avoid a dangerous glaciated crossing.
Summit Day
The final summit push began at 2:25 am on February 9 from an advanced camp. Climbers faced varying conditions throughout the day:
- Jyanglatunpu: Moderate snow cover with manageable climbing conditions
- Kekyap Ri: More technically demanding, requiring a 50-60 meter fixed rope section. The final 100 meters featured steep mixed terrain with exposed rocky ridges, taking 30-45 minutes of careful climbing
Team Composition
The successful team included:
- He Jing (Expedition Leader, China) – First woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
- Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote (IFMGA Guide)
- Ming Temba Sherpa (SST Senior Guide)
- Phurba Sonam Sherpa (SST Senior Guide)
- Wangdang Bhote (SST Senior Guide)
- Speed Dawa (SST Senior Guide)
Climber Perspectives
He Jing described the expedition as uniquely challenging: “This was completely different from my previous climbs. On the 14 eight-thousanders, I had professional support. Here, we worked as equal partners, navigating and making decisions together. The last 100 meters of Kekyap Ri involved steep rock climbing in winter conditions, but witnessing Dhaulagiri and Annapurna from the summit made it unforgettable.”
Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote noted the expedition’s demanding nature: “Route-finding proved particularly difficult due to unexpected snow conditions. The second peak required European-style alpine navigation, where we planned every detail ourselves. Seeing an unclimbed 6,000-meter peak for the first time was thrilling.”
Future Climbing Potential
Ming Temba Sherpa assessed the peaks’ commercial viability: “Both mountains sit on the China-Nepal border and offer spectacular views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Future climbers would need a high camp to attempt both summits, but with proper preparation, these peaks are feasible for commercial expeditions.”
Phurba Sonam Sherpa expressed initial excitement: “I wondered why no one had reached these summits despite Mustang’s popularity. The climbing proved manageable for professionals, though recreational climbers would need fixed ropes on the mixed sections.”
The He Jing’s team had intended to attempt Chhuama IV (6,179 meters), the remaining unclimbed peak in the nearby Chhuama Range. However, time constraints following the double ascent forced them to retreat, leaving this objective for future expeditions.
Expedition Significance
This achievement demonstrates SST’s commitment to pioneering new routes while embracing lightweight, self-reliant climbing styles that respect traditional Himalayan values. The team expressed gratitude to Pelliot for providing advanced gear tested under extreme conditions.
About Seven Summit Treks: Nepal’s premier adventure operator specializing in high-altitude expeditions with an emphasis on safety and ethical mountaineering practices. About Pelliot: A leading outdoor brand developing innovative, high-performance equipment for extreme mountaineering and exploration worldwide.
