On March 25, 2025, a remarkable milestone in Himalayan mountaineering was achieved when the Xtreme Climbers “Fastco Sharphu IV (6,433m) First Ascent Expedition” successfully reached the summit of Sharphu IV, a peak that had never been ascended before. After weeks of grueling preparation, including meticulous route-setting, high-altitude acclimatization, and technical rotations, the team launched their final summit push in the perfect weather window, overcoming the challenging conditions of subzero temperatures and dangerous mixed terrain of ice, rock, and snow. The climbers’ determination and teamwork led them to stand atop the previously unclimbed peak at exactly 3:00 pm local time.
The Sharphu IV summit is located in the remote Kangchenjunga region of Nepal, an area that posed significant challenges to the expedition. The success of the mission adds a new peak to Himalayan climbing history and sets a new standard in the world of high-altitude mountaineering. It was a historic achievement that pushed the limits of human endurance and exemplified the skill, precision, and resilience of the climbers and their support team.
The Summit Team: A Journey of Determination
The summit team consisted of climbers from various parts of the world, each bringing their unique experience and expertise to the expedition. The team was led by Hernan David Leal, a 59-year-old businessman, writer, motivational speaker, and mountaineer from Chile. Hernan has built a strong partnership with Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, a climbing guide from Nepal, over the past eight years. Together, they have successfully climbed several peaks across Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan. Hernan described Sharphu IV as his greatest mountaineering achievement due to the extreme risks involved, such as avalanches, seracs, and crevasses above 5,000 meters. According to Hernan, the peak was “incredibly demanding but absolutely rewarding,” comparing it to a “mini Annapurna.”
Other key members of the summit team included Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa from Pangboche, Solukhumbu, and Ngada Sherpa from Taplejung, both experienced Sherpa guides who played crucial roles in navigating the treacherous slopes. Purnima Shrestha from Aarughat, Gorkha, also contributed significantly as part of the climbing team.
Expedition Highlights: A Test of Skill and Perseverance
The Sharphu IV first ascent expedition was characterized by its highly technical and demanding nature. The route, graded TD/6, featured steep ice, rock, and mixed terrain that tested the climbers’ technical skills and physical endurance. Strategic acclimatization and multiple high-altitude rotations were essential for the team to successfully tackle the final push to the summit.
The expedition was not just about individual accomplishment; it was a collective effort that highlighted exceptional teamwork and flawless execution. The team faced numerous challenges, from navigating unstable icefalls to dealing with the unpredictable weather, but their unwavering determination allowed them to triumph over the harsh conditions.
The climb took place in the Kangchenjunga region, an area known for its remoteness and challenging terrain. The mountain, with its altitude of 6,433 meters, had remained unclimbed until this historic expedition, making it an important achievement in modern alpinism. The team’s success on Sharphu IV is seen as a significant contribution to Himalayan mountaineering, setting a new benchmark for high-altitude exploration.
Acknowledgment of Support: The Unsung Heroes
This historic first ascent would not have been possible without the tireless efforts of the support team, including the Base Camp crew, kitchen staff, and other logistical personnel. Their hard work and dedication ensured the safety, nourishment, and well-being of the climbers throughout the expedition. Establishing a well-equipped base camp in such extreme conditions, along with preparing meals and offering psychological support, was critical in ensuring the team’s success.
The contributions of these unsung heroes often go unnoticed, but their role in this achievement was invaluable. Their logistical expertise, together with the climbers’ resilience, created the perfect conditions for the success of the mission.
A New Benchmark in Modern Mountaineering
The successful ascent of Sharphu IV not only marks a significant milestone for Xtreme Climbers but also sets a new benchmark in the world of high-altitude mountaineering. The expedition demonstrated the power of teamwork, precision, and perseverance, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in modern alpinism. The achievement underscores the importance of preparation, resilience, and skill in facing the extreme challenges posed by the Himalayas.
This first ascent serves as an inspiration for future expeditions and provides valuable insights into the technical and logistical aspects of high-altitude climbs. The success of the Sharphu IV mission is a testament to the dedication and passion of mountaineers and the pursuit of pushing the limits of human endurance.
