Legendary Nepali mountaineer Sanu Sherpa has successfully summited Mount Lhotse (8,516m), adding another major milestone to his extraordinary mission of becoming the first climber in history to complete all 14 eight-thousanders three times.
According to Lakpa Sherpa, Managing Director of 8K Expeditions, Sanu reached the summit of the world’s fourth-highest peak at 6:40 AM on Monday, climbing alongside three Chinese climbers and three Nepali guides. The ascent was completed under extremely challenging high-altitude conditions, including severe cold, strong winds, and technical icy terrain.
Pushing the Limits of Mountaineering History
Sanu Sherpa is already globally recognised as the first climber to complete the Double 14×8000ers, meaning he has summited all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres twice.
He is now attempting an unprecedented third round of the same achievement, something no other climber in history has accomplished. With the successful ascent of Lhotse, Sanu now has only Cho Oyu and Shishapangma remaining to complete his third cycle of the world’s highest peaks.
A Career Built on Endurance and Determination
Sanu Sherpa’s journey this year has been particularly demanding. Earlier in the spring season, he summited Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in April as part of a Pioneer Adventures expedition. In January, he achieved a rare winter ascent of Makalu (8,485m), one of the most technically difficult Himalayan peaks.
That Makalu expedition, however, was also marked by tragedy, as fellow climber Phurba Ongel Sherpa lost his life during descent, while Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali went missing, with search efforts later suspended due to extreme weather conditions. Despite such challenges, Sanu continues to maintain one of the most remarkable high-altitude records in mountaineering history, having summited 8,000-metre peaks more than 40 times.
Summit Team and Safe Descent
The full Lhotse summit team included Sanu Sherpa, Chinese climbers Chen Xuexuan, Zhang Tianxun, and Xuan Wenrun, along with Nepali guides Pem Tenji Sherpa, Phurtenji Sherpa, and Ngima Chhiring Sherpa. Following the successful summit, the entire team is safely descending toward Camp IV, Lakpa Sherpa confirmed.
Lhotse: One of the Toughest Himalayan Giants
Standing at 8,516 metres, Lhotse is considered one of the most technically demanding eight-thousanders in the world. Known for its steep ice walls, thin air, and extreme weather conditions, the mountain forms part of the Everest massif and shares part of its route with Everest climbers before diverging into highly technical terrain.
