A new route on Phari Lapcha (6,017m), marking the first recorded ascent of the mountain’s southeast face, in a significant milestone for Himalayan alpine climbing, mountaineers Patrick Perry Johnson and Erik Gomez have successfully completed the first recorded ascent of the southeast face unveiling a new technical route on the iconic peak in the Khumbu region.
The ascent comes after nearly six weeks in the Khumbu, where persistent heavy snowfall had forced the team to abandon multiple planned objectives. With other peaks repeatedly shut down due to unsafe conditions, Phari Lapcha, a striking summit easily visible from the popular trekking route between Phortse and Machhermo, emerged as a promising alternative.
A Bold Alpine-Style Push
Travelling fast and light, the duo left Phortse and acclimatized at Machhermo’s renowned Yeti Lodge. From there, they prepared for a single-day alpine-style ascent, a method marked by minimal gear, no fixed ropes, and complete self-reliance. Beginning their climb at 1:30 a.m., Johnson and Gomez reached the base of the southeast face shortly after sunrise. The route presented a formidable mix of steep snow, frozen rock, and unstable upper slopes.
Johnson described the terrain as both beautiful and mentally taxing. “Loose snow over frozen rock made the mixed sections very engaging, and the final meters required real focus as the snow became increasingly unstable,” he said. He added that the final 200–300 meters demanded heightened concentration, as the climbers navigated an exposed cornice on the summit ridge before walking westward to stand on the peak. Remarkably, the team climbed without ropes or fixed protection, relying solely on their skills and judgment to move through the 750-metre face.
Introducing the New Route: “Stone(d) Yeti”
Johnson and Gomez have named their new route Stone(d) Yeti (AI2+, M3, steep snow). The line follows the southeast face directly, meeting the established route The Oracle Night for its final 100 meters. Its combination of moderate ice, mixed climbing, and steep snow adds an exciting new chapter to Phari Lapcha’s limited climbing history.
A Grueling Descent in the Dark
After summiting, the climbers descended west toward the Machhermo Glacier, navigating a complex route that required ten rappels, most performed in complete darkness. Exhausted but safe, they returned to Yeti Lodge at around 1 a.m., nearly 24 hours after beginning their push.
Sonam Sherpa, Managing Director of iTrek Everest, the expedition organizer, praised the duo’s accomplishment. “This climb brings attention to the incredible alpine potential the Khumbu still holds,” he said, emphasizing that the region continues to offer world-class challenges beyond the well-known giants.
A New Benchmark for Technical Himalayan Ascents
The first ascent of Phari Lapcha’s southeast face adds a noteworthy achievement to the growing list of technical alpine climbs in Nepal’s high Himalaya. As climbers seek more remote and demanding objectives, the success of Johnson and Gomez highlights both the challenges and opportunities that remain across the Khumbu’s dramatic landscapes. Their ascent of Stone(d) Yeti stands as a testament to bold decision-making, precise alpine technique, and the spirit of exploration that continues to define Himalayan climbing today.
