Veteran Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa is preparing for what he says could be his final climb of Mount Everest, aiming to scale the world’s highest peak for a record 32nd time during the spring climbing season.
The 55-year-old mountaineer recently returned to Kathmandu from the United States about a month ago to begin preparations for the upcoming expedition. Speaking about his plans, Kami Rita said the upcoming climb may mark the end of his remarkable Everest career that has spanned more than three decades. “I have come back to prepare for my 32nd Everest ascent this spring season,” he said. “This will probably be my last attempt on the world’s highest peak.”
Preparing for Final Everest Challenge
Kami Rita noted that friends and family had urged him to retire from Everest expeditions several years ago, but he continued climbing due to his deep passion for the mountains. However, he now believes the time has come to step away from regular Everest summits. “I am already 55,” he said. “After retiring from Everest climbing in 2026, I plan to continue trekking and other adventure activities.”
According to him, the upcoming expedition will be slightly different from previous years. Instead of guiding foreign climbers to the summit, Kami Rita said he will primarily support the expedition teams at Everest Base Camp before attempting his own summit push in mid-May, the peak window of the Himalayan climbing season.
Supporting Expedition Teams
Kami Rita works as a senior climbing guide with 14 Peaks Expedition and Seven Summit Treks, two of Nepal’s leading mountaineering expedition companies. During the upcoming season, he is expected to assist teams from 14 Peaks Expedition at base camp before attempting his summit bid.
His experience and leadership in high-altitude expeditions have made him one of the most respected climbing guides in the Himalayan mountaineering community. Many climbers consider his knowledge of Everest routes, weather conditions, and safety procedures invaluable during challenging summit attempts.
Record-Breaking Everest Career
Born on January 17, 1970, in Solukhumbu, the heart of Nepal’s Sherpa community, Kami Rita has built an extraordinary mountaineering career. He has held the world record for the most ascents of Mount Everest since May 2018, a milestone that cemented his status as one of the greatest high-altitude climbers in history.
His most recent summit came on May 27, 2025, marking his 31st successful ascent of Everest. That climb extended the record he had previously set on May 22, 2024, when he also reached the summit and strengthened his lead as the climber with the most Everest ascents.
Achievements Beyond Everest
Beyond his record-breaking achievements on Everest, Kami Rita has also established another remarkable milestone in mountaineering. He holds the record for the most ascents of mountains above 8,000 meters, with a total of 44 summits across the world’s highest peaks.
These include eight climbs of Cho Oyu, five ascents of Manaslu, and one ascent each of Lhotse and K2. His accomplishments highlight not only endurance but also a deep commitment to the profession of high-altitude guiding.
Three Decades on Everest
Kami Rita first summited Mount Everest in 1994, beginning a journey that would turn him into one of the most accomplished climbers in the Himalayas. Over the years, he has repeatedly returned to the mountain, guiding international climbers and playing a vital role in Nepal’s mountaineering tourism industry.
His Everest ascents span across decades, including successful climbs in 1994, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 (twice), 2012, 2013 (twice), 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023 (twice), 2024 (twice), and 2025.
Legacy in Himalayan Mountaineering
As he prepares for what may be his final Everest expedition, Kami Rita Sherpa’s legacy already stands as one of the most remarkable in the history of Himalayan mountaineering. His dedication, resilience, and unparalleled achievements have inspired countless climbers and highlighted the expertise of Nepal’s Sherpa community in high-altitude expeditions.
