The Russian mountaineering team has completed their acclimatization and preparation efforts on Dhaulagiri, setting the stage for an imminent summit push. The team, climbing in classic expedition style without the assistance of hired local climbers, has established three high-altitude camps at elevations of 6,100m, 6,700m, and 7,240m, and fixed ropes where necessary.
After setting up these camps, the climbers returned to Base Camp last weekend to wait out a severe storm currently impacting the mountain. The expedition, reminiscent of those from the early 20th century, operates in small groups that rotate up and down the mountain, both fixing ropes and acclimatizing as they go.
Remarkably, none of the team members are using supplementary oxygen, and they are making all strategic and tactical decisions independently, except the expedition cook, Lakpa Sherpa. The team now faces a waiting game, with bad weather being their primary concern. The forecast predicts heavy snowfall for the rest of the week, which could complicate their final push.
Expedition leader Alexander Dusheiko announced that the team would delay their summit attempt until after September 29, due to the adverse weather. This delay has forced four members of the expedition to end their climb due to time constraints, leaving nine members who remain hopeful for a summit attempt by the end of the week.
The climb ahead will not be easy, as the forecast suggests up to three meters of fresh snow in just four days, likely burying the fixed ropes. The team will also need to re-establish Camp 3, as the last group to use it had brought all the gear back down to Base Camp.
The route on Dhaulagiri typically requires three high-altitude camps, with the third camp serving as the starting point for a long traverse under the summit ridge. From there, climbers must navigate one of the snow couloirs leading to the summit area, ensuring they reach the highest point of the mountain. As the team prepares for their final push, they remain vigilant of the weather conditions, knowing that the fresh snowfall could present significant challenges in the days ahead.
