Nepali climbers have once again made their mark on the international mountaineering scene. Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa have been nominated for the Piolets d’Or 2024 for their groundbreaking first ascent of Patrasi I (6,450m), while Pasang Kidar Sherpa and Danika Gilbert of the United States received nominations for establishing a new alpine-style route on the northwest ridge of Beding Go (6,125m) in the Gaurishankar range. These nominations highlight the skill, perseverance, and innovative spirit of Nepali alpinists in pushing the boundaries of technical climbing.
First Ascent of Patrasi I: Light and Fast
Under the “Light and Fast” project, the team of Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa scaled Patrasi I on June 12, 2024, via the Northwest Ridge over Patrasi II in the remote Kanjiroba Himal. The ascent was completed in true alpine style, without fixed ropes, supplemental oxygen, or additional support, exemplifying the team’s high level of skill and commitment to clean climbing practices.
Reflecting on the nomination, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa remarked, “This nomination stands as a testament to the strength, skill, and spirit of Nepali alpinism.” The climbers faced numerous obstacles, including rough weather, heavy snowfall, and loose rocks, yet successfully completed a technically demanding climb that emphasized natural route-finding and alpine proficiency, distinguishing it from conventional fixed-rope expeditions.
Vinayak Jaya Malla, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, led the team, supported by Pasang Rinzee and Pasang Kami, both IFMGA aspirant guides. Their expedition was funded by the Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), a UK-based organization established in 1955 that has since supported over 2,000 remote expeditions and scientific research projects related to high-altitude medicine, glaciology, and climate change.
Climbers’ Expertise and Achievements
All three climbers bring extensive experience to their climbs. Vinayak Jaya Malla has summited Everest five times and led successful expeditions on Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. He is also a Mountain Leader Instructor and Examiner, trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue, and recognized for his ability to manage complex expeditions safely. Pasang Kami Sherpa boasts ten Everest summits, while Pasang Rinzee Sherpa has achieved two Everest summits, establishing themselves as some of Nepal’s most accomplished alpinists.
Alpine-Style Route on Beding Go
On October 13, 2024, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and Danika Gilbert completed the first alpine-style ascent of the northwest ridge of Beding Go (6,125m), located on the Nepal-Tibet frontier east of Gaurishankar (7,134m). Starting from a 5,100m high camp at the head of the Chhimugolche River, west of Beding village, the duo climbed steep alpine tundra and talus, previously attempted by climbers targeting Dolma Kang (6,332m).
Pasang Kidar Sherpa, an IFMGA-certified guide and owner of Khangri Treks, is one of only 14 such guides in the Rolwaling valley, representing a new generation of highly skilled Nepalese mountaineers capable of pioneering technical routes in remote regions. The expedition highlighted the alpine-style ethos of climbing with minimal gear and maximum efficiency, demonstrating creativity and precision in route selection.
Significance of the Piolets d’Or
The Piolets d’Or, often called the “Oscars of Mountaineering,” recognizes climbs that combine technical difficulty, style, and innovative approach. It celebrates mountaineers who demonstrate creativity, risk management, and respect for natural environments, making it one of the most prestigious awards in the climbing world.
This year’s nominations of Nepali climbers mark a major milestone for the country, showcasing the leadership and expertise of its mountaineers on global stages. By achieving first ascents on previously unclimbed peaks and establishing new alpine-style routes, these climbers demonstrate the vital role of Nepalese guides and alpinists in shaping modern mountaineering standards.
Looking Ahead
The Piolets d’Or 2025 awards ceremony will take place in San Martino di Castrozza in the Italian Dolomites from December 9-12, 2025, where these climbers’ achievements will be formally recognized. The nominations underscore the growing international reputation of Nepali mountaineers for pioneering climbs that are technically demanding, environmentally conscious, and executed in a lightweight, alpine style.
As these climbers continue their expeditions, their work not only enriches the legacy of Himalayan mountaineering but also inspires future generations of Nepalese and global climbers to embrace challenges, innovate in their approach, and pursue high-altitude exploration with courage and responsibility.
