In a significant development for mountaineers and trekking agencies worldwide, China has confirmed it will issue climbing permits for Mount Everest from the Tibet side for the upcoming spring season. However, permits for Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, two prominent peaks in the region, will not be granted this season. This decision, which has been closely watched by the mountaineering community, is attributed to a combination of personnel shortages, security concerns, and recent tragic incidents on the mountains.
Mingma Sherpa, President of Climbalaya Trek & Expeditions, shared the news from the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA), which oversees climbing permits and safety on peaks in Tibet. Sherpa confirmed that the CTMA had made the decision to limit permits for this spring season in light of the current situation. “Due to a shortage of personnel, CTMA is focusing its resources primarily on managing Everest expeditions for this season,” Sherpa explained. The decision also comes after careful consideration of security and safety concerns, which have become more pressing following several incidents in the Himalayas in recent years.
Mount Everest Permits to Be Issued by Early April
Climbers hoping to summit Mount Everest from Tibet will still have the opportunity to do so, as climbing permits for the world’s highest peak are expected to be issued by early April. Sherpa confirmed that the necessary procedures for the spring season have already been completed, and the permits are expected to arrive by April 4 or 5. “We have completed all necessary procedures for the spring season, and the permits will arrive within the first week of April,” Sherpa stated. This timing aligns with the usual issuance period for permits for Everest from the Tibet side, and around 100 climbers, including Sherpas, are expected to attempt the summit this season.
While the issuance of permits for Everest has been confirmed, the situation surrounding the other two mountains, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, is markedly different. Despite being two of the most sought-after peaks in Tibet for climbers, permits for these mountains will not be available for the spring season. Sherpa explained that the decision stemmed from China’s growing concerns about the safety of climbers on these mountains, particularly after recent tragic events.
Shishapangma Tragedy Influences Permit Decision
The tragic avalanche that occurred on Shishapangma in October 2023 has played a crucial role in the decision to withhold permits for climbing the peak this season. The avalanche claimed the lives of American climber Anna Gutu and her Nepali guide Mingmar Sherpa, as well as leaving American climber Gina Rzucidlo and Nepali guide Tenjen Lama (Sherpa) missing. This devastating event raised serious concerns about the safety of climbers in the region, prompting the CTMA to temporarily suspend climbing on Shishapangma. Although the suspension was lifted later in the autumn season, the association has now decided not to issue permits for either Cho Oyu or Shishapangma for the upcoming spring season.
Sherpa emphasized the impact of these safety concerns on the CTMA’s decision. “The tragic events on Shishapangma and the ongoing security concerns have led China to decide against issuing permits for these mountains this spring,” he said. While the decision may disappoint some climbers who had hoped to attempt these peaks, Sherpa reassured that permits for both Cho Oyu and Shishapangma would be available again in the autumn season, offering an alternative opportunity for those eager to climb these challenging peaks.
Challenges and Implications for Climbers
The decision not to issue permits for Cho Oyu and Shishapangma comes at a time when mountaineering in the Himalayas is seeing increased attention from climbers worldwide. The decision reflects China’s broader efforts to prioritize safety and control over expedition operations in Tibet. This includes a focus on maintaining proper oversight of Everest expeditions, which have seen an influx of climbers in recent years, with over 100 climbers attempting to summit the peak each spring season.
The Chinese government’s emphasis on safety and risk management is understandable in the wake of the growing number of accidents on high-altitude peaks. The tragic losses on Shishapangma highlight the inherent dangers of mountaineering, particularly in the unpredictable conditions of the Himalayas. In response to these challenges, the CTMA has opted to streamline its resources and focus on ensuring safe expeditions on Everest, which remains the primary destination for international climbers in Tibet.
The withholding of permits for Cho Oyu and Shishapangma may have a temporary impact on the plans of many climbers. For those who were aiming to summit these peaks in the spring, this development could mean a delay or a change in plans. However, Sherpa’s assurance that permits will be available again in the autumn season provides hope for those who still wish to climb these mountains later in the year.
While climbing permits for Mount Everest from Tibet will be issued as planned for the spring season, climbers looking to attempt Cho Oyu and Shishapangma will have to wait until the autumn season. This decision, driven by personnel shortages and safety concerns, highlights the delicate balance between promoting mountaineering and ensuring the safety of climbers in one of the most treacherous regions of the world. As always, mountaineers are urged to proceed with caution and to remain informed about the latest developments before embarking on their expeditions.
