Two Czech mountaineers have successfully summited Kangchung Tse in alpine style without Sherpa climbing support, marking a significant achievement on one of Nepal’s rarely climbed Himalayan peaks.
According to IAM Trekking and Expeditions, climbers Martin Ksandr and Petr Kadanka reached the summit of the 7,678-metre peak on the morning of May 13. The successful ascent was confirmed by expedition guide Nima Geljen Sherpa.
Alpine Style Expedition Successfully Completed
The expedition was conducted in alpine style, meaning the climbers ascended the mountain carrying their own equipment and supplies without the fixed logistical support commonly used on major Himalayan expeditions.
Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, Chief Executive Officer of IAM Trekking and Expeditions, congratulated the team on their successful ascent. “Congratulations to the alpine style team on the successful summit of Kangchung Tse this morning,” he stated following confirmation of the summit. The seven-member expedition team was led by Lukas Madr and also included Slovak climber Jana Vankova alongside Czech climbers Josef Vojtech and Marek Blahuta.
Summit Comes Days After Tragic Loss
The successful ascent came during an emotionally difficult expedition season for the team following the death of fellow Czech climber David Roubinek earlier this month.
According to expedition officials, the 38-year-old climber died on May 4 after suffering from high-altitude pulmonary edema while descending from approximately 7,400 metres on the mountain. He reportedly passed away at around 7,200 metres below Camp III.
A five-member rescue and recovery team coordinated by Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of Seven Summit Treks, later recovered Roubinek’s body from around 7,300 metres and transported it to the high camp at 6,100 metres on May 10 despite difficult weather conditions in the high Himalayas.
Rarely Climbed Peak in the Makalu Region
Kangchung Tse, located in Sankhuwasabha district as part of the Makalu massif, remains one of Nepal’s less frequently climbed high-altitude peaks. Its remote location and technical climbing challenges have made it an attractive destination for experienced mountaineers seeking alternative Himalayan routes beyond the more commercial expedition mountains.
Mountaineering experts note that alpine-style ascents on such remote peaks require a high degree of technical skill, physical endurance, and self-sufficiency due to limited support infrastructure and unpredictable weather conditions.
Nepal Continues to Attract International Climbers
Nepal’s spring climbing season continues to attract climbers from around the world to both major expedition peaks and lesser-known technical mountains. While Everest and other 8,000-metre peaks receive most international attention, mountains such as Kangchung Tse are increasingly gaining recognition among experienced alpine climbers seeking more demanding and less crowded objectives.
The expedition was fully organized and managed by IAM Trekking and Expeditions, which has been involved in various Himalayan climbing operations across Nepal.
