Bangladeshi mountaineer Babar Ali has made history by becoming the first climber from his country to summit Mount Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak standing at 8,485 metres. The achievement also marks his fifth successful ascent of an 8,000-metre peak, a record unmatched by any other Bangladeshi climber.
According to expedition organizers, Ali reached the summit at 5:30 am Nepal time on May 2, accompanied by Ang Kami Sherpa and Lakpa Rinjin Sherpa. The team confirmed a successful ascent and wished for a safe descent back to Base Camp.
Expedition Supported by International and Local Teams
The successful climb was part of the expedition titled “Makalu: The Fifth Frontier”, organized by the Bangladeshi mountaineering club Vertical Dreamers, of which Ali is a founding member and general secretary. The expedition was locally supported by Makalu Adventure Pvt. Ltd..
Makalu Adventure Managing Director Mohan Lamsal confirmed the successful summit and highlighted the coordinated effort between international climbers and Nepali support teams that made the ascent possible.
One of the Most Technically Demanding Himalayan Peaks
Located in the Mahalangur Himal range of Nepal, Makalu is widely regarded as one of the most technically challenging mountains among the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 metres. Known as the “Great Black One,” the mountain is characterized by its steep ridges, sharp pyramid-like structure, and demanding climbing conditions. Experts say Makalu is often used as a preparatory challenge for climbers aiming to complete the full set of 14 eight-thousanders due to its extreme technical difficulty.
Final Summit Push After Months of Preparation
Ali began his expedition journey on April 7, trekking to Base Camp via Tumlingtar and Seduwa. Over the following weeks, he completed multiple acclimatization rotations between higher camps to prepare for the summit push.
On April 30, following a brief improvement in weather conditions, he launched his final ascent from Camp 3 at approximately 7,400 metres. The team climbed more than 1,100 vertical metres overnight, reaching the summit at dawn on May 2. Expedition officials stated that Ali is expected to safely descend through lower camps and return to Base Camp by May 3.
A Career of National Firsts in Mountaineering
The Makalu ascent adds to a series of historic achievements by Babar Ali. In 2024, he became the first Bangladeshi climber to successfully summit both Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse in a single expedition. In 2025, he went on to climb Annapurna I and Manaslu, with the Manaslu ascent completed without supplemental oxygen, another national first for Bangladesh.
Ali began his mountaineering journey in 2014 after gaining trekking experience in the Chattogram hills. He later received formal training from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in 2017, which laid the foundation for his high-altitude climbing career.
Closer to the Goal of All 14 Eight-Thousanders
With the successful ascent of Makalu, Ali now has five eight-thousanders to his name, moving closer to his long-term goal of summiting all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, an elite achievement accomplished by only a small number of climbers worldwide.
Expedition organizers and fellow climbers have hailed his latest success as a landmark moment for Bangladeshi mountaineering, noting that his achievements continue to inspire a new generation of climbers in the region.
A Rising Figure in Himalayan Mountaineering
Babar Ali’s historic ascent of Makalu not only marks a personal milestone but also places Bangladesh firmly on the global high-altitude climbing map. His consistent breakthroughs on some of the world’s most dangerous peaks highlight growing South Asian participation in extreme mountaineering and reinforce the Himalayas as a shared arena of endurance, ambition, and international collaboration.
