The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOAN) formally bid farewell to two mountaineering teams tasked with fixing routes and ropes on Ama Dablam (6,812m) and Himlung Himal (7,126m). A special ceremony was held in Kathmandu on Sunday, where the teams received warm wishes and encouragement for their challenging missions.
EOAN President Dambar Parajuli handed over the national flag of Nepal as well as flags bearing the logos of the association and the Department of Tourism to the expedition leaders. These flags are to be placed on the summits upon successful ascents and later returned as symbols of achievement and pride.
Ama Dablam Route-Opening Team
The team assigned to open the route on Ama Dablam, one of Nepal’s most iconic peaks in the Everest region, is being led by Nuru Wangchu Sherpa from Pangboche. With over two decades of mountaineering experience, Wangchu Sherpa is a seasoned climber who has successfully scaled several of the world’s highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Manaslu, and Makalu.
For the last five years, he has continuously led the rope-fixing mission on Ama Dablam, making him one of the most trusted and respected climbers in this highly technical mountain. His leadership is seen as a key factor in ensuring the safety of hundreds of climbers who attempt Ama Dablam each season.
The Ama Dablam team includes:
- Namgel Dorje Tamang
- Lalkumar Tamang
- Pasang Tenji Sherpa
- Mingnuru Sherpa
- Zenzen Sherpa
Together, they will work to establish and secure safe passage through the steep ice, rock, and mixed terrain for climbers following this autumn.
Himlung Himal Route-Opening Team
Meanwhile, the responsibility of leading the Himlung Himal rope-fixing mission has been entrusted to Chhiring Bhote, a dedicated climber with over 10 years of experience. Bhote recently served as the deputy leader of the autumn 2025 Manaslu expedition, successfully guiding his team to the summit at 7:40 PM on September 20 before safely returning them to base camp. His impressive background also includes participation in rope-fixing teams on Everest and Lhotse, further solidifying his reputation as a capable and determined mountaineer.
The Himlung team comprises:
- Hira Bhote
- Ang Babu Sherpa
- Karma Sarki Sherpa
This group will be responsible for navigating the technical challenges of Himlung Himal, located near the Nepal-Tibet border, which is gradually gaining popularity among climbers seeking alternative peaks to the crowded 8,000-meter giants.
Organized Management by EOAN
At the farewell ceremony, EOAN General Secretary Rishi Bhandari and Treasurer Dawa Sambu Sherpa formally presented the expedition teams with association-branded caps and jackets, symbolizing unity and recognition. The event was attended by EOAN officials, advisors, and representatives from member agencies, reflecting the strong institutional backing for the missions.
EOAN has been officially managing rope-fixing operations on several prominent peaks since spring 2011, with government authorization. The association has played a crucial role in organizing and financing rope-fixing for Manaslu, Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse. In 2024, Himlung Himal was also added to the list, making this year’s mission particularly significant as it continues to expand Nepal’s mountaineering portfolio.
Mountaineering as a National Pride
During the program, General Secretary Bhandari highlighted the irreplaceable contribution of Nepali climbers in sustaining the mountaineering industry. “It is only because of Nepali climbers that the mountaineering sector continues to thrive in Nepal. The unique bond between mountains and climbers must always be respected. Without climbers, the concept of mountaineering itself cannot exist,” he said.
His remarks echoed the broader sentiment that Nepal’s reputation as the world’s mountaineering hub relies heavily on the courage, skill, and dedication of its Sherpa and Tamang climbers, who risk their lives to ensure safe access for domestic and international mountaineers alike.
Challenges and Expectations
Both Ama Dablam and Himlung Himal are considered technically demanding, requiring careful route planning and rope-fixing. Ama Dablam, with its dramatic ridges and steep ascents, is often described as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, but also one of the most treacherous. Himlung Himal, though slightly lesser known, presents its own difficulties due to remoteness, unpredictable weather, and challenging icefall sections.
The route-opening teams are expected to work under tight timelines to prepare the mountains for the upcoming autumn climbing season, which attracts hundreds of climbers from across the globe. Their success will not only ensure safe expeditions this year but also contribute to Nepal’s long-term tourism and mountaineering economy.
Looking Ahead
As the teams departed with blessings and national pride, the mountaineering community is watching their progress with keen interest. Their work represents both tradition and progress, tradition in the sense of honoring Nepal’s mountaineering legacy, and progress in showcasing the country’s evolving capabilities in professional expedition management.
EOAN’s continued involvement highlights Nepal’s determination to maintain high safety standards and strengthen its position as a global leader in adventure tourism. The symbolic gesture of placing Nepal’s flag at the summits of Ama Dablam and Himlung Himal will stand as a proud reminder of the country’s enduring mountaineering spirit.
